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Showing posts with label for. Show all posts

Lead Acid Battery Regulator For Solar Panel Systems

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The design of solar panel systems with a (lead-acid) buffer battery is normally such that the battery is charged even when there is not much sunshine. This means, however, that when there is plenty of sunshine, a regulator is needed to prevent the battery from being overcharged. Such controls usually arrange for the superfluous energy to be dissipated in a shunt resistance or simply for the solar panels to be short-circuited. It is, of course, an unsatisfactory situation when the energy derived from a very expensive system can, after all , not be used to the full. The circuit presented diverts the energy from the solar panel when the battery is fully charged to another user, for instance, a 12V ice box with Peltier elements, a pump for drawing water from a rain butt, or a 12V ventilator.

It is, of course, also possible to arrange for a second battery to be charged by the super-fluous energy. In this case, however, care must be taken to ensure that when the second battery is also fully charged , there is also a control to divert the superfluous energy. The shunt resistance needed to dissipate the superfluous energy must be capable of absorbing the total power of the panel, that is, in case of a 100W panel, its rating must be also 100 W. This means a current of some 6–8 A when the operating voltage is 12 V. When the voltage drops below the maximum charging voltage of 14.4V growing to reduced sunshine, the shunt resistance is disconnected by an n-channel power field effect transistor (FET), T1.

The disconnect point is not affected by large temperature fluctuations because of a reference voltage provided by IC1. The necessary comparator is IC2, which owing to R9 has a small hysteresis voltage of 0.5V. Capacitor C5 ensures a relatively slow switching process, although the FET is already reacting slowly owing to C4. The gradual switching prevents spurious radiation caused by steep edges of the switched voltage and also limits the starting current of a motor (of a possible ventilator). Finally, it prevents switching losses in the FET that might reach 25W, which would m a ke a heat sink unavoidable. Setting up of the circuit is fairly simple. Start by turning P1 so that its wiper is connected to R5.

When the battery reaches the voltage at which it will be switched off, that is, 13.8 – 14.4V, adjust P1 slowly until the output of comparator I C2 changes from low to high, which causes the load across T1 to be switched in. Potentiometer P1 is best a 10-turn model. When the control is switched on for the first time, it takes about 2 seconds for the electrolytic capacitors to be charged. During this time, the output of the comparator is high, so that the load across T1 is briefly switched in. In case T1 has to switch in low-resistance loads, the BUZ11 may be replaced by an IRF44, which can handle twice as much power (150 W) and has an on-resistance of only 24 mR. Because of the very high currents if the battery were short-circuited, it is advisable to insert a suitable fuse in the line to the regulator. The circuit draws a current of only 2 mA in the quiescent state and not more than 10mA when T1 is on.
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Anti Theft Security For Car Audios

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This small circuit, based on popular CMOS NAND chip CD4093, can be effectively used for protecting your expensive car audio system against theft. When 12V DC from the car battery is applied to the gadget (as indicated by LED1) through switch S1, the circuit goes into standby mode. LED inside optocoupler IC1 is lit as its cathode terminal is grounded via the car audio (amplifier) body. As a result, the output at pin 3 of gate N1 goes low and disables the rest of the circuit.

Whenever an attempt is made to remove the car audio from its mounting by cutting its connecting wires, the optocoupler immediately turns off, as its LED cathode terminal is hanging. As a result, the oscillator circuit built around gates N2 and N3 is enabled and it controls the ‘on’/‘off’ timings of the relay via transistor T2. (Relay contacts can be used to energise an emergency beeper, indicator, car horns, etc, as desired.)

Anti-Theft Security For Car Audios Circuit diagram:

Anti-Theft Security For Car Audios

Different values of capacitor C2 give different ‘on’/‘off’ timings for relay RL1 to be ‘on’/‘off’. With 100µF we get approximately 5 seconds as ‘on’ and 5 seconds as ‘off’ time. Gate N4, with its associated components, forms a self-testing circuit. Normally, both of its inputs are in ‘high’ state. However, when one switches off the ignition key, the supply to the car audio is also disconnected.

Thus the output of gate N4 jumps to a ‘high’ state and it provides a differentiated short pulse to forward bias transistor T1 for a short duration. (The combination of capacitor C1 and resistor R5 acts as the differentiating circuit.)As a result, buzzer in the collector terminal of T1 beeps for a short duration to announce that to announce that the security circuit is intact. This ‘on’ period of buzzer can be varied by changing the values of capacitor C1 and/or resistor R5. After construction, fix the LED and buzzer in dashboard as per your requirement and hide switch S1 in a suitable location. Then connect lead A to the body of car stereo (not to the body of vehicle) and lead B to its positive lead terminal. Take power supply for the circuit from the car battery directly.

Caution.
  • This design is meant for car audios with negative ground only.
Author:T.K  Hareendran Copyright: Circuit Ideas
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24V Flasher for Vehiclcles

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This is simple flasher circuit diagram.Here I have used common Transistor 2N3055.This transistor can drive up to 10A.B1 and B2 are 24V/25W.Changing the value of R1,R2,C1,C2 you can control the speed.


Note
# This circuit operates with 24V power supply
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Vocal Adaptor for Bass Guitar Amp

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These days, music is a major hobby for the young and not-so-young. Lots of people enjoy making music, and more and  more dream of showing off their talents on  stage. But one of the major problems often encountered is the cost of musical equipment. How many amateur music groups sing through an amp borrowed from a guitarist or bass player?

This is where the technical problems arise not in terms of the .25” (6.3 mm)  jack, but in terms of the sound quality (the words are barely understandable) and volume (the amp seems to produce fewer decibels than for a guitar). What’s more, unpredictable feedback may cause damage to the speakers and is very unpleasant on the ear. This cheap little easy-to-build project can help solve these technical problems.

Vocal Adaptor for Bass Guitar Amp Circuit diagram :

Vocal Adaptor for Bass Guitar Amp-Circuit Diagram

A guitar (or bass guitar) amplifier is designed first and foremost to reproduce the sound of the guitar or bass as faithfully as possible. The frequency response of the amp doesn’t need to be as wide or as flat as in hi-fi (particularly at the  high end), and so this sort of amplifier won’t  permit faithful reproduction of the voice. If you build an adaptor to compensate for the amp’s limited frequency response by amplifying in advance the frequencies that are then attenuated by the amp, it’s possible to improve the quality of the vocal sound. That’s just what this circuit attempts to do.

The adaptor is built around the TL072CN low-noise dual FET op-amp, which offers good value for money. The NE5532 can be used with almost the same sound quality, but at (slightly) higher cost. The circuit breaks  down into two stages. The first stage is used to match the input impedance and amplify the microphone signal. For a small 15 W guitar or bass amplifier, the achievable gain is about 100 (gain = P1/R1). For more powerful amplifiers, the gain can be reduced to  around 50 by adjusting P1. The second stage  amplifies the band of frequencies (adjustable using  P2 and P3) that are attenuated by the guitar amp, so as to be able to reproduce the (lead) singer ’s voice as clearly, distinctly, and  accurately as possible. To refine the adaptor and tailor it to your amplifier and speaker, don’t be afraid to  experiment with the component values and the type of capacitors.

The circuit can readily be powered using a 9 V battery, thanks to the voltage  divider R4/R5 which converts it into a symmetrical  ±4.5 V supply.

Author :Jérémie Hinterreiter - Copyright : Elektor

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Symmetric Output for USB Audio DAC

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This simple adapter circuit is specially intended for use with the USB Audio DAC published in this website elsewhere. With an easily implemented modification, it is possible to make the output of the D/A converter pseudo-symmetric, so that it can be connected to professional equipment having XLR line inputs. This will do even more justice to the high quality of the USB Audio DAC. The modification actually amounts to just adding a single resistor (R11a) and changing the value of the existing resistor at the output of the audio DAC (R11) from 100 Ωto 68Ω. Components C14 and R12 remain unchanged. It is not difficult to make this change on the printed circuit board of the audio DAC, but a bit of improvisation is necessary. After replacing R11 with a 68-Ω version, unsolder R12 and connect R11a in series with it. Bring out the junction of these two resistors to act as the signal return connection (pin 3 of the XLR socket). The same operation must also be carried out on the right channel, where the affected resistors are labelled R16, R16a and R17.

Symmetric Output for USB Audio DAC circuit diagram
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Deep Discharge Protection for Rechargeable Cells

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Deep Discharge Protection for Rechargeable CellsWith this circuit built into the power supply of a battery powered device, it will prevent the rechargeable cells from being completely drained when you forget to turn the equipment off. When the battery voltage drops below a preset limit (9.5 V in this example) the circuit will automatically disconnect the battery. Power is re-connected when the voltage rises above an upper threshold level (10.5 V here), this will typically occur after the equipment has been plugged into its recharging station.
The circuit is designed to use as little power as possible.The ICL7665 from Intersil forms the heart of the circuit. This IC contains two comparators together with a voltage reference and consumes just 3 μA. The circuit only uses one of the comparators, the values of resistors R1 to R3 shown in the diagram will cause the circuit to switch at the levels mentioned above. The comparator output switches the P-channel MOSFET T1 which in turn controls power to the load RLOAD.
Circuit diagram:
Deep Discharge circuit
The switching threshold levels and hysteresis can be changed by using different values of resistor for R1 to R3. Increasing the value of R3 to 300 KΩ will raise the upper thresh-old level to 12.5 V. The ICL7665 data sheet gives examples of suitable resistor values that can be used here.  The PCB layout uses SMD components so the finished circuit takes up very little space  when installed in the equipment.  A fine-tipped soldering iron should be adequate to mount the components and there shouldn’t be any problems provided you do not choose to use very small resistor packages. Once the circuit has been tested the entire PCB can be protected by encapsu-lating it with a short length of heat shrink sleeving.
Data sheet IRL7665:  www.intersil.com/data/fn/fn3182.pdf
Data sheet IRLML6402:  www.irf.com/product-info/datasheets/data/irlml6402.pdf
Author : Tilman Küpper Copyright : elektor elector  -  7-8/2007
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Longwire Match For SW Receivers

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Most shortwave receivers for use ‘in the shack’ have a 50-coaxial input (usually a SO239 socket) which is not directly suitable for the high impedance of a typical long-wire antenna. The problem is usually overcome by inserting a balun (balanced to unbalanced) transformer whose primary purpose is to step down the antenna impedance from ‘high’ to to 50Ω and not, as would be expected, to effect a change from balanced to unbalanced (note that a long-wire is an unbalanced antenna). Unfortunately, such a balun may be difficult to obtain, make yourself, or both. The circuit shown here is a transistorized (i.e., inductor-free) equivalent of the wire balun. The grounded-collector configuration is used because a relatively high input impedance (the long-wire antenna) has to be stepped down to 50 Ω (the receiver input impedance).

Longwire Match For SW Receivers Circuit Diagram
Voltage amplification is not required here. The two anti-parallel diodes at the antenna input prevent damage to the circuit as a result of static discharges or extremely strong signals. Like an active antenna, the circuit receives its supply voltage (in this case, 9V) via the down-lead coax cable. Current consumption will be of the order of 20mA. The coax cable should be earthed at the receiver side. The length of the antenna wire will depend on local conditions and what you hope to be able to receive. For most SW broadcast service and amateur radio listening, a wire of about 3m will be sufficient but bear in mind that the long-wire antenna is prone to pick up electrical interference.
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Using Cell Phone Charger For Making a LED Tube Light

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Using Cell Phone Charger For Making a LED Tube Light



A plug in wall lamp can be built at home by using a few white LEDs and by powering it through a cell phone charger. The power from cell phone charger is around 6 volts at 500 mA approximately. The power may be well suited and can be tried for powering white LED lights. The application includes some important types like a LED tube light, LED wall lamp, LED porch light, LED table lamp etc. to name a few.

A discarded, spare cell phone charger and a few inexpensive LEDs are all that you want you make a simple yet powerful LED tube light. The cell phone charger can also be used for making a porch light, a bed room wall light or a table lamp. Full circuit schematic is enclosed here in.
A nice little wall mounted cool lamp can be built using a few number of white LEDs and s discarded AC mobile charger adapter. The use of a cell phone charger makes the entire unit very compact and perfectly mountable on wall sockets.
Cell phone chargers are not new to us and nowadays we all seem to have a couple of in spare with us. This may be mainly due to the reason that whenever a new cell phone is procured a charger comes free within the package with the handset. This units are so long-lasting and rugged that most of the time chargers last more than the cell phones.
These spare cell phone chargers often lie idle and at some point of time we tend to dispose them off or simply discard them from our house. For a lay man these units may be a piece of junk, but a technical individual might make a complete gem out of it. Especially a person who may be an electronic hobbyist will very well know how valuable a cell phone charger can be even when it’s not being used for its actual intended purpose.
What are Cell Phone Chargers and How do they Function
We all have seen a cell phone charger working or rather being used for charging cell phones. Therefore we definitely know that it’s something to do with the supplying of some sort of power output.
That’s correct, these are actually a form of AC to DC adapters, however they are incredibly efficient as compared to an ordinary adapter which may employ a transformer for the required conversions.
Cell phone chargers are able to provide a nice six volts at a massive 800 mA of current. That’s quite big considering the size and the weight of these units.
Basically a cell phone charger is a high-grade SMPS power supply at the above rated level. Fortunately a white LED also works at potentials which quite matches with the above specs.
This prompted me to think of using a spare cell phone charger to be used as a plug-in type wall lamp. Mind you one charger can provide enough power to support at least 30 odd numbers of high power high-efficiency white LEDs. It simply means that the lights can be used as a compact LED tube light which can comfortably replace a common CFL light and generate light quite as good.
At no loads, a cell phone charger may provide outputs up to 10 volts, which can easily power a couple of LEDs in series. The series will consume a minimum of 20 mA, however since the charger can supply a good 500 ma plus current we can add 15 more such series in parallel, making the total accommodation close to 30 or more LEDs.
Parts Required
You will require the following parts for constructing the proposed project:
Series Resistors - All 68 Ohms, 1/4 Watt
An ordinary spare cell phone charger – 1no.
White LEDs – 30 nos. for making a small tube light or 10 LEDs for making a wall mounted bedroom lamp etc. (see text)
PCB – General purpose type or as per the project specifications.
Construction Clues
Constructing this LED wall lamp is not difficult as it only requires the LEDs to be fixed in rows and columns correctly as shown in the diagram. You may use the power from the cell phone to light any number if LEDs depending upon the requirement.
For example if you want to make a porch light for illuminating your house veranda, then probably you would need to assemble not more than 6 LEDs.
For making a cool bedroom room lamp a single LED would suffice, instead of sitting in complete darkness, this light may be used or switched ON while watching TVs or videos.
For making a table lamp for reading purposes, a group of 10 LEDs would provide enough light for the purpose. 

And as discussed above, a descent LED tube light can also be built by assembling some 30 + LEDs in conjunction with a cell phone charger power supply. 
For all the above applications, the basic mode of soldering and fixing the LEDs remains the same. Fix and solder a series of two LEDs with a series current limiting resister and now go on repeating this series as many times as you want, depending upon the type of lamp you are trying to build. Once you finish assembling this layout, you may go joining all the free ends of the resistors which becomes one of the supply terminals, similarly join all the remaining free ends of the LEDs, which becomes the other supply terminal of the unit. These supply inputs now just needs to be connected with the cell phone charger supply.
The LEDs should immediately come ON and produce illumination just as desired by you.
The assembly now needs to be housed appropriately inside a suitable plastic enclosure as per individual specification and liking.
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How to choose the best for your home theater system

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Watching movies is a neat escape from the stressful lifestyle we live in. Watching movies in a wide screen and surround sound take you far away and into the movie scene you are watching. You watch it as if you were there in the movie scene. Of late, we can only experience this escape in a cinema. However, modern technology may be able to provide this same sight and sound experience right in your own living room. We will discuss the basic components of a home theater system in this article. Read on to understand how these basic components can deliver the best cinematic experience to a home theater system.


How to choose the best for your home theater system   Home theater experts state that the most important consideration in setting up a home theater system is the size of the room where you will set up the home theater system. The most important component of the home theater system, which is the television, is dependent on the size of the room. Although, the recommendation is 27 inches television set at a minimum is necessary for your home theater set up. It is also a recommendation that a flat television is good for a home theater system because it exhibits fewer glares and produces a crisper image. 

Another major component of a home theater system that depends on the size of the room is the speaker. The number of speakers for your home theater system is dependent on the size of the room. You may add up to six speakers from the basic three speakers if you want a more lifelike sound. Adding a subwoofer may also be good to achieve a complete surround sound like in the movie theaters. Three speakers should be the minimum; you may go up to six if the room is big. 

Another major for your home theater system is the DVD player. It is a recommendation that DVD players with progressive scan will be the best choice. This is because progressive scan produces sharp and flicker-free pictures. This however points back to the choice of television unit; you may need to check if the flat television set supports progressive scan signals. You may also acquire a five-disk carrousel DVD player. This will avoid having to stand up from your seat to change discs every so often. A minor consideration is the power rating that will determine how loud your speaker can be. Of course, almost all these depend on the size of the room to where the home theater system is going to be set up. Small room requires from few types of equipment, bigger rooms may require more and adding home theater furniture to your home theater system may be best. A bigger room thus requires more investments. A smaller room might require fewer but of good quality equipments to avoid the too basic feel of the home theater system.

Finally, you may acquire a beautifully designed home theater system if you consider hiring a home theater expert. If you can afford this, it will be best for you because the home theater expert will be able to effectively design and set up your home theater system. Your home theater designer may also add some features like home theater seating and other home theater furniture to be able to give the complete home theater package that closely resembles a real movie theater. Having the finest and high-quality home theater system will give you the most sought after set up that you could flaunt and enjoy to the max.

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LM339 Using for LED VU Meter

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This circuit in below uses two quad voltage comparator using IC LM339 to illuminate a series of 8 LEDs indicating volume level. Each of the 8 comparators is biased at increasing voltages set by the voltage divider so that the lower right LED comes on first when the input is about 400 mili volts or about 22 mili watt peaks in an 8 ohm system.


The divider voltages are set so that each LED represents about twice the power level as the one before so the scale extends from 22 mili watts to about 2.5 watts when all LEDs are lit. The sensitivity can be decreased with the input control to read higher levels. I have not built or tested this circuit, so please let me know if you have problems getting it working. This is the power levels should be as follows:
· 1 LED = 22mW
· 2 LEDs = 42mW
· 3 LEDs = 90mW
· 4 LEDs = 175mW
· 5 LEDs = 320mW
· 6 LEDs = 650mW
· 7 LEDs = 1.2 Watts
· 8 LEDs = 2.5 watts

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Contrast Control for LCDs

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The adjustment control for the contrast of an LC-Display is typically a 10-k potentiometer. This works fine, provided that the power supply voltage is constant. If this is not the case (for example, with a battery power supply) then the potentiometer has to be repeatedly adjusted. Very awkward, in other words. The circuit described here offers a solution for this problem. 

The aforementioned potentiometer is intended to maintain a constant current from the contrast connection (usually pin 3 or Vo) to ground. A popular green display with 2x16 characters ‘supplies’ about 200 µA. At a power supply voltage of 5 V there is also an additional current of 500 µA in the potentiometer itself. Not very energy efficient either. Now there is an IC, the LM334, which, with the aid of one resistor, can be made into a constant current source. The circuit presented here ensures that there is a current of 200 µA to ground, independent of the power supply voltage. By substituting a 2.2-k? potentiometer for R1, the current can be adjusted as desired.

Circuit diagram:The value of R1 can be calculated as follows: R1 = 227x10-6 x T / I. Where T is the temperature in Kelvin and I is the current in ampères. In our case this results in:
R1 = 227x10-6 x 293 /
(200x10-6)
R1 = 333R

Note that the current supplied by the LM334 depends on the temperature. This is also true for the current from the display, but it is not strictly necessary to have a linear relationship between these two. Temperature variations of up to 10° will not be a problem however. This circuit results in a power saving of over 25% with an LCD that itself draws a current of 1.2 mA. In a battery powered application this is definitely worth the effort! In addition, the contrast does not need to be adjusted as the battery voltage reduces. When used with LCDs with new technologies such as OLED and PLED it is advisable to carefully test the circuit first to determine if it can be used to adjust the brightness.

Circuit diagram:
contrast-control-for-lcd-circuit-diagramw
Contrast Controller Circuit Diagram For LCDs

The value of R1 can be calculated as follows: R1 = 227x10-6 x T / I. Where T is the temperature in Kelvin and I is the current in ampères. In our case this results in:
  • R1 = 227x10-6 x 293 /
  • (200x10-6)
  • R1 = 333R
Note:
  • The current supplied by the LM334 depends on the temperature. This is also true for the current from the display, but it is not strictly necessary to have a linear relationship between these two. Temperature variations of up to 10° will not be a problem however. This circuit results in a power saving of over 25% with an LCD that itself draws a current of 1.2 mA. In a battery powered application this is definitely worth the effort! In addition, the contrast does not need to be adjusted as the battery voltage reduces. When used with LCDs with new technologies such as OLED and PLED it is advisable to carefully test the circuit first to determine if it can be used to adjust the brightness.
     
     
    http://www.ecircuitslab.com
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